Ok, just thought I'd post what I've found.
My motor: G63B.
I should have been more precise in my 1st post. Specifically, there were 2 distinct issues w/this truck:
a) Carb fried
b) #4 plug was getting completely packed, between gap, w/grainy oil.
I orderd a Weber kit for problem a). I have good sources, now, which have done this swap with excellent results.
WRT b): I *had* little familiarity w/jet valve functioning, design etc. Only references here, and elsewhere, that they were problematic. Or, in summary, very general info w/out enough info to craft a solution.
I had assumed I had either bad rings or something broken in head assembly (eg: valve seat or ???). Thing is, I've never seen a plug pack up like that, because of a bad valve.
I had assumed, thus... decided, to replace the motor entirely, as I wanted something dependable. All these trucks in the U-Pull yard, dead (seemingly) w/+/- 125k miles w/no other visible reason to be there... just bothered me.
I kept digging, for specifics wrt these heads. I found this here:
http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/mitsubishi-articles.htmlQuote:
Excessive Oil Consumption
on 1978-89 Chrysler Jet Valve Engines
AERA members have reported excessive oil consumption and spark plug fouling complaints on 1978-89 Chrysler jet valve engines. These engines are manufactured for Chrysler Corporation by Mitsubishi Motor Corporation of Japan.
There are several possibilities for allowing oil to pass into the combustion chamber. They are oil leaking past the valve stem seal or the jet valve body O-ring, or a worn jet valve body or valve stem. Since oil can travel among the various air passages in the cylinder head casting, it is important to inspect all jet valves not just the cylinder that is indicated by a fouled spark plug.
Remove the jet valve assembly as indicated in the appropriate service manual and inspect the O-ring for nicks, cuts, tears or deformation. Likewise, a brittle O-ring is not capable of sealing out lubricating oil. The O-ring, Chrysler part #MD009786, should be replaced whenever the jet valve assembly is removed from the cylinder head.
Disassemble the jet valve assembly and inspect the valve stem seal for damage or deformation. Chrysler recommends replacement of the complete assembly if the valve body or valve stem are worn. Use Chrysler part #MD009440.
Any oil residue or carbon must be removed from the jet valve passages before assembly. See the appropriate OE or aftermarket manual for further information and torque values.
The AERA Technical Committee
Ok, so followed that through, those seals are available.
Kept digging, and found these guys:
TopEnd Performance
[url]http://www.racetep.com/starhead.html
[/url]
They are machine shop, specializing in these old motors for some years.... only one I found who knew their stuff on these things.
In above link, they describe completely recast heads they sell, w/out jet valve machining. They have 2 of 'em: one is for NA motors, the other a more robust alloy for turbos.
Their guys spent a good hour on the phone w/me, answering all questions. I ordered my Weber from them. Also, after doing compression/Leak down test, I'm persuaded bottom end of mine is fine. They recommended (what they call) a Jet Valve elimination kit (essentially, plugs for machining where jet valves go): they say these are a more reliable fix then replacing the jet valve seals.
I had contacted about 1/2 dozen reputable rebuilders, across the country. Asked a lot about jet valve issues: none of those guys had anything to say, other then they redo stock heads, w/out mod, to spec.
If I were going (or, as it turns out, I need) to, I'd have a good bottom end build somewhere, then buy a head from TopEnd.
Kudos to those guys, glad to know there's a shop that knows their stuff wrt these Jet Valve heads.
Hope this is of use to someone out there.
Take care