Hello Everyone

We just want to start out as saying, We where a members of mightyd50 where a lot of good info was put up by us. I feel this site has some merit so We believe it's time to discuss the belief by some that the 4g64 sohc 8 valve is a poor engine to turbo needless to say there is some challenges This is a post of a group of people that have done it and this is the story
Once upon a time about 7 years ago I(Steve) and my friend Richard looked at a truck in the scrap yard yes we where “saving” a 1990 dodge ram 50 reg cab long box 208,000km 2.4l sohc 5 speed gray on gray 2wd power steering power brakes and a box liner and it ran great, all that for $800.00 wow what a deal good gas mileage and great little truck to tow Richards boat, so he bought it and put it on the road. End of story right? Wrong we brought it home and the first thing we did was top up the coolant it was a little low then the truck did not want to turn over. Well we just fill the cylinders with coolant three to be exact we took the head off to find there where cracks in three combustion chambers, in-between the exhaust and intake valves. We got a new (used) head out of a u pick and pull yard it was a 1989 Hyundai sonata gls 2.4l with "jet valves" auto and with a timing belt that was walking into the block and going to cut itself in half (the long way), but it had kept the timing of the motor as not to destroy itself lucky for us. So we got the head cleaned up "Jet valves" where removed and plugged head installed new water pump timing belt back on the road again. Then came Richards birthday the day that would start the great turbo adventure I said let's turbo your truck for your birthday. That is how it started, so we looked on some forums, and it can be done. So we started here, where most people where saying that it was "better" to swap 4g64 sohc to the more popular 4g63 dohc head to produces more power or to swap the whole motor and trans for the 4g63 turbo 2.0l short width block but I wanted to do something different. Looking around to find the specs on the stock motor 100mm of throw on the crank vs. the 88mm on the 4g63 2.0l turbo this gives the motor the great low-end torque that we all love, in these trucks. There are disadvantages to this, the engines inability to rev to 7500+rpm is lost. I would have to say the 4g64 can safely rev to 5500-6000 rpm under high boost. Next we come to the rods, the stock rods in the 4g64 sohc are the same rods that are used in the 4g63 2.0l turbo. These rods are known to be the weak link(rod bolts/studs), but in saying that, they are still good for 300hp which is more than you would expect out of the 4g64 sohc with 10 psi boost so we are good in that department. Pistons, yes they are cast so they can't take the heat and stress that forged pistons can but in saying that as long as you keep the revs down(rev limiter) and keep the oil cool (using oil cooler) and the exhaust gas temperature within reason(proper tuning) you will be able to use the stock pistons to full advantage you can melt forged pistons just as easily as cast from improper tuning trust me I know The 2.4l 4g64 sohc 8 valve head has no problem with flow to about 300hp, so for most of us with the desire to have a quick fuel efficient truck the 200 to 275 hp range is acceptable. This in comparison to the 4g63t head swap and all the associated problems example : water jacket passages head to block, head gasket, head bolts, complete rewire of the fuel injection system, camshaft gears/timing belt from 94 gallant GS, custom exhaust manifold and exhaust, thermostat housing relocation, intake manifold /throttle body relocation you pretty much need a perfectly running parts car talon/laser/eclipse that no one has F*^%ed with “hard to find”. Now I know that our truck doesn’t have gob loads of power, I figure it has 190hp and 230ft lbs. of torque and full 10psi boost at 1500 rpm to the 5000 rpm red line with a peak of 12psi. Compare this to a Honda S2000 both vehicles weight 2400lbs. The S2000 has 240hp @7500RPM and 160 ft lbs. @5500 RPM?
I will bore you to death with the details how we put this together, so how about tell you the parts list. This way maybe better, if you have any questions or want more detail just ask and I will post for all 
Stock block cleaned bored honed .020
Stock crank polished with cleveite 77 bearings
Stock rods cleaned APR rod studs cleveite 77 bearings
Stock pistons/rings .020 over New from Mitsubishi
Stock head from 1989 Hyundai sonata GLS valves /seats cleaned up removed and plugged “jet valves” new spark plugs Stock Mitsubishi head gasket and ARP head studs compression ratio of 8.5:1
Stock intake manifold/throttle body blocked off EGR valve
Stock oil Pan welded in pipe for turbo oil return
Stock Timing belt new water pump removed mech. Fan installed electric fan wired up to run all the time
Stock Oil pump with sandwich oil cooler with used talon oil cooler
Stock counter shafts removed with small timing belt also removed
Stock Mitsubishi 440cc talon injectors in place of stock 275cc with 10 ohm resistance wired into wiring harness
Stock wiring harness for whole engine MPFI accept for 10 ohm resistances mentioned above to each injector Super AFC fuel management 6AL ignition box 5000 RPM pile installed
Stock new Radiator and hosing cold 160F thermostat heater core bypass (simpler)
Custom intercooler piping, intercooler from ford 1988 SVO 2.3l, HKS blow off valve
Turbo off a 1989 Dodge Caravan 2.5l turbo a Mitsubishi TE04-13C 10 psi @1500RPM waste gate set to 12 PSI
Custom built by me log type exhaust manifold/turbine outlet downpipe and exhaust complete with cherry bomb turbo muffler not very load at all, Welded in bung for ECU O2, wideband and exhaust gas temperature probe.
Stock fuel tank with 255 LPH Walbro fuel pump and cheap no name fuel pressure regulator with pressure gauge
Stock transmission with a T-handle shifter, stock flywheel and a Centerforce duel friction disc pressure plate and throughout bearing combo
Stock starter, alternator, power steering pump lines steering box
Stock Rear differential housing welded spider gears the true posi rear diff 
As you can see from my parts list here most of my parts are stock! I believe that if you kept your boost to 5 or 6psi that you would not even have to open up the engine the only reason that we went into the engine at all, was because the balance shaft driven by the small belt had a worn out bearing which dropped the oil pressure enough to destroy the main/rod bearings in the bottom end. If you go over 5-6 psi you will need a clutch not a cheap stock replacement but a performance one. If your going to take out the engine do yourself a favor and inspect it put new bearings make sure it has genuine Mitsubishi pistons not cheap after market replacements they remove to much material away from the piston skirt around the pin these will develop cracks at the pins 1000km after I put in aftermarket pistons this is what happened to us. Don’t get me wrong the whole turbo thing is shit loads of fun, but you have to “pay to play” this way is cheaper then most. 
Basically in the end the only thing stopping people from turboing their trucks on the forums in this fashion is the exhaust manifold and the turbo outlet so what I am proposing dependent on response is to build them to sell from my design to use on Mitsubishi turbos see what you guys/gals think about this the truck has been on the road turbocharged for about 5 years now and it has 239,000km it does have a welded diff roll bar 4 point harness racing seats so it’s not something you take to pick up grandma to go to church in that’s why the low km’s/year basically it goes to the track and gets beat up hard it’s great! And my wife uses it as a “fast” motorized wheel barrow, she likes it because it is low to the ground. Use this if she is giving you any problems.

It says you built a manifold but the pics look like its cast. Any more clarity on that? I have found bolt on top mount turbo manifolds for this 8v head. Price is between $200-400. What price would you be building and selling them for?

Good right up. At least Im not one of the only ones trying to turbo this beast.

Your right it does look like cast but it is made out of sch 40 pipe fitting with 3/8 plate flanges it's just 7 years old now and I never painted it so it's just rust that you see from great Canadian winters. My manifold is for sure a lot lighter then a cast one remember you have that cast manifold/turbo/downpipe hanging off of 8 small head studs I don't have any extra support from the block or engine mount to prop up the setup. As for my price it looks like I would be doing it for $350.00+shipping(CAN) your dollar keeps droping. That would give you the manifold and a downpipe piece as long as I have a turbo that I can use for sizing I will also test fit it to my truck and send you pictures to make sure it has proper fitment before I ship it out. I just made another post read it, see what you think. With this setup you can run 5 psi boost as a daliy drive with a stock engine no problem and still keep your gas milage.

The manifold I was referring to is from the starions in australia. They used the same 8v head and came with tc-06's I think, from thte factory over there. I dont hink they had any problems with the weight of the cast and the turbo. But it is a good thing to keep in mind.

Have you ran 4-5psi on stock internals and fuel on this 46g4? I will be using a T25 from a 2G DSM engine, my down pipe will have to be custom made as well.

I may have missed it but what did you do in terms of oil recirculation? Did you use the oil filter housing for the oil feed line? Have you tried bolting on a oil pan from a 7 bolt dsm?

I believe that the manifold you’re talking about is very hard to come by, if you don’t already have one good luck getting one. As for 4-5psi with stock internals yes stock fuel no you will get about 2000rpm out of the injectors and that it you will run out of fuel. Now when you say stock internals do you mean that you will take apart the engine freshen it up with new bearings and rings then yes if you try a turbo on a truck with 200000 miles on it your taking a chance. As for the oil pan question I feed the oil return line back to the oil pan, just drop the pan and weld a pipe to the side of it I could also do that as part of a exhaust manifold package. The oil pressure feed is off the back of the head on the passenger side you will find a bolt remove this bolt and turn over the engine don’t start it you will have a firewall covered in oil when you do feed the oil line from there you have to give it a tiny orifice it feeds way to much oil to the turbo. The oil feed line is pictured 4th picture from the bottom. The turbo that you have is a great size to start with. Anymore questions just ask. Oh and read the new post there.

Did you do this 4-5psi and run out of fuel? Or is this an educated guess? I am just curious. What is telling you it would run out of fuel and at that exact rpm?

The manifolds are easy to be had over there, the issue is the shipping cost. But I have been quoted less than 250 shipped. How long would it take for you to make one?

No uneducated guess work here just very expense mistakes, well it could have been. It was my first turbo project and I was very excited about driving it even down the back alley way just to see if it would spin the turbo with no (upgraded) fuel pump in the tank no fuel control (super AFC) no timing control no upgraded injectors no (upgraded) fuel pressure regulator she was a small turbo that spooled up at 10psi@ 1000rpm so by the time it got to 2000rpm it knocked and buck and would not drive any faster it had run out of fuel(super lean). Well it was so cool we put it back in the garage and invested in the above items, and then we had a turbo truck. Just to put it in perspective the stock fuel system may have 10-20 percent extra over max rpm so really there is no room. As for how long it would take to make a exhaust manifold 10 hours how long to get to you maybe 2 weeks depends on shipping preference I would have to find a t-25 turbo or the bolt pattern I do have a turbo outlet O2 housing for a turbo talon. I just don't know if it changes/different for the automatic turbo (t-25) and the standard turbo (TD04-14g) I have the standard housing

That must have a been a very very small turbo to spool that amount that fast. The T25 is small and it still took almost 3500rpm's to reach 11psi. But 10psi on stock everything is a no no, thats a lot for the computer to try and compensate for.

The automatic turbo is a 13G for anything 1990 through 1994, the manual cars had the 14B and anything, auto or manual, from 1995 and up had the T25 garret. They all use the same mount pattern.

Thanks for the info. Hope all this helps some other people.

Yes you are right about the turbos. I just remenber someone running a t-25 in an auto of 92 vintage and thought that all auto's where t-25 it's been a long time since I looked at one. The turbo that spools @ 3500rpm was that in 2.0l talon, I had a "Laser RS" and yes it did take that long to spool the TD04-14g it sucks. The 2.0l turbo are known for not having any low end torque. This has to do with the engine timing. for shit's and giggles wire in a stock 2.0l n/a computer in your talon and pull back the "cas" about ten degress on a 1990-1994 car only to avoid detination, and you with find it runs really rich but if you put a super AFC on the computer to pull the fuel out at the lower RPM's to get it to run right the timing maps are way different in the n/a the turbo will spool way faster and you will have low end torque. Give it a try see what you think. Oh and if you do put the t-25 turbo on your 2.4l 4g64 with the stock computer and a super AFC, injectors ,pump in tank and regulator it will have full boost 10-11 psi at 2000 rpm easy. The computer timing and .4l disp. will make the turbo move real good. You see this in rally cars with low end torque to get out of coners. I also tuned my Dodge Stealth r/t t/t the same way but I can change fuel/timing in that with my AEM-EMS.
My BMW 535xi is also tuned the same way I have the dinan chip, but I did not tune that it was bought. Maybe I will do a write up in timing.

I have seen 2.4 mitsu engines with small turbos on them and never had an issue with turbo spool at idle... Maybe there was a problem?? Either way, im sure its fun to have such boost at low RPM's but with a motor that is known to have low end, and top out at like 4500 a bigger turbo is the best way to go.

IM not a fan of piggybacks lying to the ECU (S-AFC's and such) I dont feel like they are a great idea for a true well running car. Id rather wire in a ECU with timing and fuel maps for a turbo car. Or a standalone system. But it sound like your truck has made it this far, so its doing something.

Also the oil filter housing has a cleaner and better spot to get oil from for the turbo, just some FYI. Why choose the head?

You have seen turbo's on 2.4l have you ever built one? If you built one with a td04-10t you will have spool at idle it's not a problem, I built it on purpose to see how it worked. A big turbo is not the best way to go, these engine's are not! built for big RPM, so why would you put a over sized turbo? You are correct about the better standalone ecu but who has $1500 to waste on a aem ems for a truck that's worth $1000 when a $100 super AFC with base computer timing will do the job just fine. Why the head and not the block for oil feed line, this is a simple answer. The turbo needs a very small amount of oil the stock 4g63 2.0l turbo uses the same oil gallery to feed the turbo. I used the oil pump housing take off for the oil pressure gauge to monitor the mains, which are more important than the turbo, plus with our noisy lifters a small amount of oil starvation in the top end is very noticeable, and you can shut it down right away to save the mains/engine. Any other questions are welcome

the cordia and tredia 1.8/2.0 turbo manifolds bolt on the 2.4 paired port head

do you have a picture of this manifold?

As do SOHC turbo'd starion/conquest manifolds, might be the same as the cordia/tredia manifold mxmikie was talking about.



There has been some people discussing options for 2.4 turbos on mightyram50.net , might want to check it out

I checked out the mightyram50.net good info one guy on there with the 4g64 dohc turbo truck build that has good info, many other people on there probably don't know what there talking about, just saying what they have read over and over and over again. Ask any questions you want but ask them from somebody that has been there and done it before you will do yourself a favour.