Ok so I'm working on replacing the head gasket on my 85. i've got all the exterior stuff removed (after many broken tools and busted knuckles...) pulled the valve cover today, now I am stuck on the timing. Is there a way to pull the timing chain without removing everything? If it is possible I would like to just lide the chain off and leave all the cams, valve springs, and all that mess bolted into the head. is this possible or am I just procrastinating tearing it all down?

It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure you can just unbolt the cam gear and pull the head intact.

Hi hampton123,

Not knowing exactly what steps you have performed, the following is the entire head removal procedure quoted from my Chilton' manual:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the coolant.

3. Remove the air conditioner compressor drive belt.

4. Remove the heat shield over the brake master cylinder.

5. Disconnect the oxygen sensor harness connector and remove the remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold.

6. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

7. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

8. Remove the air intake duct and the secondary air cleaner.

9. Disconnect the PCV hose and accelerator cable from the valve cover. Remove the valve cover and gasket. Remove the half-circle plug from the head.

10. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks and set the engine to TDC/Compression for number one cylinder.

11. Label and disconnect the coil and spark plug wires from the distributor.

12. Disconnect the fuel lines.

13. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the power brake booster from the engine. Disconnect the heater hose and engine coolant hose at the rear of the engine.

14. Remove the dipstick tube an dipstick. Discard the O-ring.

15. Disconnect the rear (bottom) of the catalytic converter form the exhaust system.

16. Remove the distributor.

17. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses at or near the head.

18. Label and disconnect the electrical connectors at the head and intake manifold. Remember to connectors on the rear of the head too.

19. Remove the ground cable connection at the engine.

20. Remove the bolt holding the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft. Remove the distributor drive gear.

21. Pull the camshaft sprocket (with the timing chain attached) from the camshaft and place it on top of the camshaft sprocket holder.

Warning: The crankshaft must not be rotated after the sprocket is removed from the camshaft. Do not allow the timing chain to come off the camshaft sprocket.

22. Double check the head to insure no remaining wires or hoses are connected.

23. Loosen the head bolts in the order shown (this is important) and in three passes until all are finger loose. Remove the bolts. Note that the two front bolts must each be loosened before bolt number 2 is loosened.

24. Rock the head gently to break it loose; it tapping is necessary, do so with a rubber or wooden mallet at the corners of the head. DO NOT pry the head up by wedging tools between the head and the block.

25. Lift the head free of the engine, remembering that the intake and exhaust manifolds (with the catalytic converter) are still attached to the head. This assembly is heavy; an assistant is helpful when lifting. Support the head assembly on wooden blocks on the workbench.

Head bolt loosing sequence and location:

1 4 6 11 9 3
Front of engine
1 2 8 10 7 5

I hope this helps, John

Hi hampton123,

I didn't like the format of the head bolt loosing sequence and location in my last post so here it is again:

Front of engine 1 4 6 11 9 3
Front of engine 1 2 8 10 7 5

John

thanks that is alot of help. haha wish i would have realized I didn't have to take the intake and exhaust manifolds off earlier... oh well already bought new gaskets for them anyways. One of these days when i find my box of cords, I will post the pics that i have been taking of my engine bay and inside of the engine.

Anybody have the torq specs on the head bolts?

So is there anyway to get to the bottom of the timing chain cover without taking the whole front of the engine off? i dropped the cam gear washer... fml

Maybe try a magnet on a stick.

that was my first thought but i knocked it off of the chain and i can't find where it went. On the G54b engines, is there a bottom to the timing cover or is it open to the oil pan? if it is open to the pan couldn't I stick a stronger magnet to the bottom of the pan and hold the washer there instead of tearing my engine apart again?

Nah, it's open to the oil pan. Magnet on the pan would probably work, but from that point on every little rattle or noise you're gonna be thinking about that washer. Try getting down there w/a magnet on a stick. If that doesn't get it, I'd bite the bullet and drop the pan.

I'm ok with it being in the oil pan. Atleast I know that i can finish putting the top of my engine back together and make sure that it is gonna start back up. Then I can drop the pan when my next check comes in instead of waiting on my next check to make any progress

Anybody know the size of the washer that goes on the cam gear? or am I in the take parts to the store and find one that works boat?

Sounds like you need to find a friendly junk yard. Maybe a dealer? Couldn't cost much. Magnet on the oil pan will probably work. You need to get the engine fired up, for sure.

found one at lowes that matched up well with the oil marks. new plugs and battery tomorrow and I will get to hear this $200 jewel start for the first time!

sooo I stripped the bolt on my tensioner... man its always something...

Guess my dreams of finally owning a car with AC are down the tube till I find a new one

So, how's it going, Hampton? Any progress with your tensioner?