Well where do I start? We built the truck years ago as a “drift truck” well there is not a lot of places to drift in Ontario. So I took the truck to a open lapping day with the wife and some friends, and it did alright I should clarify the word alright, I didn’t put it into a wall and against Porsche GT-3’s and the like it was a parking cone. I got pasted by everybody I did manage to keep up to the likes of srt-4’s and heavily modified Honda civics so that’s a good start right? This is still a truck, and minus, the lack of e-brake and four point harnesses instead of regular seat belts this truck is road legal. There is no build page on this site so I might as well put this build page here.
You have to be patient I will put up pictures tomorrow on what I have done so far but as or right now I will describe what’s going on to date.
The braking system:
The stock braking systems on these trucks are lacking at best then you add a 100 extra horsepower or so they become scary so I did a lot of work all new brake lines throughout the truck not pretty but there on. I was changing the brakes on my friends truck a 2003 Chev half ton and they have 6 bolt rims and brake rotors so I took one off his truck and test fit it onto the 50 the stock 15 inch 4x4 rims would not clear the brake callipers so I did some research and found that the smallest Chev truck rim in these years was 16 inch so I found a set of steel Chev truck rims in 16 inch and bought them up I didn’t want to have the “Bling Bling” wheels off a Cadi I wanted a stock look. I would like to try the 4 wheel disk conversion but I didn’t have the money or time for the fabrication so I kept the large drums in the rear and removed the e-brake cables and T-handle small weight savings. The fronts I did up with stock sized slotted 2003 Chev ½ ton front rotors with good quality front brake pads and stock new rebuild 2 piston front callipers with brackets I made my own mounting bracket to go from the stock mounting to the Chev calliper bracket this worked out very well. I also installed new wheel bearings. As you can see from the pictures, the wheels have been plasma cut out, hub ring so they can fit. I would have done a cleaner job with a lathe but free hand cutting was faster. This cutting out of the hub in such a way made it impossible to install the wheel balancer so we came up with a great idea we removed the hub from the spindle and installed it to the rim and removed the bearing races from the hub this allowed us to balance the hub, rotor, rim/tire as one unit and that worked great, we got the truck up to 155 km/h on the straight at the track and it feels awesome. So with everything installed we pulled truck out of my garage and guess what the tiny master cylinder was way too small to apply any of the brakes. So there truck sat for a whole year in my driveway until one of the kids in my court was bugging me about it so I showed it to him turbo and all he convinced me to fix it and take it out so here we are a year later. I got my hands on a 93 Ford Crown Victoria with 4 wheel disk brakes and a giant brake booster and master cylinder, so we installed it to the firewall hooked up the lines and gave it a try. It works great full brake lock up at 100km/h at 3/4 pedal and no brake fade. I am more than happy with the brake upgrade I don’t think I will look into upgrading the rears to disks until I run more boost on the truck.
Interior upgrades:
Some of the interior plastic lower dash is removed. The carpet is also removed. We also installed 2 4-point no name racing seats and 2 4-point harnesses. I installed a small roll bar just for mounts for the seat belts.
The Suspension:
We did the normal suspension upgrade years ago 4 inch blocks in the rear and middle spring removed installed air adjustable shocks with reinforced shock mounts. The fronts we removed the springs and cut off some I can’t remember I think 1 or 2 turns whatever is the most you can do with new gas shocks up front. The suspension was no good for drifting it has a good front setup but the back has no trailing bar no sway bar old rubber it’s just bad. I going to install a trailing bar and rear sway bar, before this Friday’s lapping day, this may keep the backend in check.

I was up to 5:00am last night before the track day, to get all that done everything worked great. Until the turbo let me down now the truck leaves a giant cloud of oil(burning) when you let off the trottle. My guess it's the thurst bearing in the turbo is shot. It doesn't burn oil at idle, when the oil pressure is low, just at high rpms and loads. I have a TD04HL-16T volvo turbo that I will change out to. I will have to cut off the exhaust manifold flange and replace it with one that will fit the volvo style, and I will redo the exhaust piping to a 3" from 2.5". Then I will raise from the 10 lbs.of boost now on stock cast pistons, and maybe try 15 psi @ redline(5600) up from 5000 we will see



you can see the new bottom air shock mounting to give room for the cross link


You can see the slot that I cut with my mill this made it easy for set up I just drop the truck to the ground with the hoist with the cross bar bolt loose tighten it up all set up there is no suspension play now it's very tight unstreetable works great for drifting


for those of you with good eyes the track bar is off a FWD laser turbo RS I cut about 6 inches off the lengh and the sway bar is from a ford crown vic rear bar 18 mm not the 21 mm from the cop car the rubber mounts are just 18 mm mogg and the end links are off jags/volvo/ford I just went through a parts book until I found ones that I liked


As you can see I used plates and bolts to tighten up the load spring this worked well there is no air in the air shocks but when I took it to the track I had 20psi in them


sway bar mounts where made by 3 plates weld together and axal round cut out with a plasma cutter it nice to have all the toys


School bus intercooler and laser RS oil cooler yes there is a little cutting of the rad cradle and of the bumper mounts but it looks stock from the outside grill/bumper are in the stock location no real indication of whats underneath

You're running a 2.0, 2.4, or 2.6 turbo?

Second, with the bus intercooler, obviously no ac? I am looking for a small IC to use on my turbo max and still retain the AC.

2.4l sohc 4g64 turbo no a/c

I'm also looking for a front mount that I can run and still keep a/c. Let me know if you find anything rxinhed and I'll do the same

Well it looks like I will miss today’s (Friday) track day. The turbo was blown the bearings where gone passing oil to the exhaust turbine and compressor housing. The turbo was TD05-14B off a talon/laser 2.0l 4g63. The new turbo is TD04HL-16T off a 2000 Volvo v70. This turbo is a great size for the 2.4L but it has a completely different turbine housing meaning, I have to make a new downpipe and cut off the old exhaust to turbine flange for the different flange on the Volvo. Well to avid all that work I did some research and found out that the turbos off the talon/laser automatics where TD04HL-13G a not very desirable turbo in the DSM ranks so I picked one up for $40 this worked out great. I used the turbine housing off of it in place of the Volvo turbine housing so now I made a TD04HL-16T with a DSM housing so everything I made so far downpipe/exhaust manifold bolts right up. I just have to change the compressor discharge piping a bit as the Volvo compressor side doesn’t have a flanged outlet. The –T compressor has a greater efficiency 77% instead of the –B at 71% and it also has greater mid range torque (more air) at slower wheel speed 30,000 Rpm less compared to the –B. This should make it a quick spooling turbo with high boost range(18 psi) for low rpm’s (max at 5500 rpm) quickly dying off after that.

Old blown turbo TD05H-14B


On the left Td04hl-13g auto talon 4g63 turbine housing on the right td04hl-16t v70 volvo turbine housing both fit the same wheel and bearing housings

Same as above


Same as above


Same as above


Talon auto bearing housing and 13g compressor didn't use any of this just the turbine housing


As you can see here the volvo turbine housing has only the one outlet this makes for better flow and less material perventing the common problem with the talon housings being cracked on the wastegate seats(read bad design)

left volvo 16t compressor housing with recirc valve right talon auto td04hl-13g


same as above


All three td05h-14b talon man. volvo 16t talon auto td04hl-13g

you can see the oil leakage from the blown td05h-14b

same as above


same as above with volvo bearing centre


same as above


exhaust mainfold and down pipe


same as above


volvo compressor housing and talon auto turbine housing dowel pins must be removed to "clock" the turbo to make it fit my build up


removed pins you can see the pins and how small they are


small amount od damage to the compressor housing when removing the pin will make no difference in the build


Using the exhaust manifold as a work bench so I can build the turbo

Dowel pin hole can be seen on the bearing housing


oil feed from the top


the volvo turbo was a rebuild from before you can see faint writing on the compressor face of the bearing housing


compressor inducer size 1.710"


compressor educer size 2.20"


volvo compressor housing in my milling machine vice cutting down the waste gate mount


same as above


same as above mill cutter was spinning at 1600rpm when the picture was taken


same as above all cut out


used some washers for fitment


wastegate was off the td05h-14b the td04 on was to short

backend shot


wastegate fully open on 12 psi


the valve does not open very far we will see if it controls well eoungh


new gasket kits


oil feed line fittings and tiny dowel pins


exhaust side of the block


same as above


exhaust seals leaking I will have to change them soon enough


same as above


same as above


oil feed fitting fitted


exhaust manifold install prep

nice.

Did you make that mani if so how did you do it and what all would i need to make my 90mm 2.4 turbo

Dale read all my other posts about turbocharging the 4g64 sohc. Iam in the process of building to sell turbo manifolds and downpipes with different exhaust flanges on them to fit other turbo's. If you have any other questions please ask. thanks

Cool man thanks

what will be the price on one

$350 us + shipping this includes turbo exhaust manifold and 2.5"down pipe like in the picture you must state what if any o2 bungs are needed along with egt ones stardard flange is one for a talon turbo you must clock the turbo this give you a lot of dsm turbo options tdo4hl and td05h can make it in a different flange but this will limit your turbo options

Hey RXINHED, just got an intercooler on mine that allows me to keep all the stock a/c lines/condenser/etc... Check out my thread for pics http://www.maxd50scene.com/forums/projects/ill-mits-build-thread-4g63t-swap-t1552.html

Took the truck to the track and beat it up some it really needs some new exhaust/intake valve seals. The truck sits to long, it sits for 6 months for the winter and the seals all go for a shit. I need a new oil cap and a proper catch can to take care of the blow-by from the motor I also might put cooling lines to the turbo it may be the reason I destroyed the last one. There is some oil coming from the "new" used turbo but that may go away after some break in time. I know that it shouldn't leak oil but the turbo was sitting for some time so we will see. It's also getting to hot here to run the winter tires that I have on the truck but the only tires I have are some 17 inch inch one's from my wifes BMW she got new one's so now I have to find some 17 inch chev truck rims bc I am running 16 inch ones right now

It been a little while since I replied last we took the truck to the track last Wednesday and we got kicked off the track because of the smoke screen of burning oil it was pretty bad after two laps atleast i got my money back for the lapping day oh and a new development was the leaking fuel tank that put the final nail in the coffen these fuel tanks are of a terrible design two halfs of the tank are spot welded on the edge this is where road salt and dirt collect over the years and rust out the seam and gas leaks anything close to half a tank. This winter, I will remove the box off the truck remove the tank put in a fuel cell and repair the rusted out frame work do some weight reduction to the box to lower the center of gravity and see how that goes.